Archive for the ‘copenhagen’ Tag

Glyptoteknocrat (Day 53)

Glyptotek Copenhagen museum gallery

Starting the day with a meeting about multi-generational space missions in closed loop systems (i.e. intergalactic travel taking many generations to complete, not even hundreds but thousands of years and more) does tend to shift your perspective so left CPH:DOX with headshifted and an ambition to squeeze the most out of my last few hours in Copenhagen. Headed to the Glyptotek which houses the art collection of Carlsberg of brewing fame, on the recommendation of both Toni Arden (who hails from the city although has been living in England since she met Paul on a Scandinavian ferry as a teenager) and Ove Jensen of European Documentary Network.

Glyptotek Winter Garden Copenhagen museum gallery

Glyptotek means a house for sculptures. You know that weird thing where you come across a word for the first time and then it crops up again the same day? Well it happened with Glyptotek – a bit Twilight Zone given how obscure a word it is. I was reading a novel by Philip Kerr, The One from the Other, a detective story set in Nazi Germany, both in the terrace café in the charming Winter Garden of the Glyptotek and again on the plane home, when the hero, Bernie Gunther, a Berlin cop moved to Bavaria after the War, meets a client, a rich blonde in a Porsche, at the Glyptothek (with an H) in Munich.

Any way I set up office in the Glyptotek (without an H), moving from the running water and palm frond tranquility of the glass-domed Winter Garden to the quiet of the antique sculpture lined galleries. More Ginsberg needless to say.

I had a sneak preview of the French painting galleries which open in their renovated form tomorrow (bad timing on my part) – the highlights of the few rooms already open were a couple of Courbets and a large scale painting of a beggar at a bourgeois door by a 19C French artist whose name didn’t ring a bell.

The_Beggar - Jules_Bastien-Lepage (1880)

The Beggar – Jules Bastien-Lepage (1880)

Had a final writing session on a bench beside the idiosyncratic building with its sculptural details of hippo and teeth-bearing ape heads as the sun lowered in a wash of red, then headed for home. Complemented the Chandleresque adventures in post-war Germany with some more research on Peter Cook who I feel is moving out towards the edge of the radar as the Comedy candidate, proving beggars can be choosers.

The Naked Truth (Day 52)

Oscillated in and out of CPH:DOX / SWIM multiplatform documentary conference, using the gaps between meetings to push on with Ginsberg. Set up camp in the park opposite the Danish Film Institute to tap away in the low autumnal sun.

Rosenborg Palace Garden

My office in Rosenborg Palace Garden

At a gathering of documentary-makers in the evening had a chat with mild-mannered Tom Perlmutter, chairman of the National Film Board of Canada, who met Ginsberg in the late 60s when he (Tom) was 21. He went to interview him at a Montreal hotel and when the door was opened to him Ginsberg was standing there stark naked like Dean opening the door to Sal and Carlo (who of course equates to Ginsberg) in On The Road, only chubbier. He carried on in similar state throughout the interview, with Tom trying to act as matter of fact as possible. I’d dropped some material about Ginsberg’s penchant for getting his kit off but this anecdote prompted me to do a Uy and put it in as it’s a good physical expression of Ginsberg’s striving for openness and honesty.

allen ginsberg naked

The naked truth is always better than the best dressed lie.
Ann Landers

Prince of Denmark (Day 51)

hamlet-laurence-olivier

Taking the show back out on the road – this time to Copenhagen for CPH:DOX, the annual documentary film festival, and an emerging sub-set called SWIM which focuses on multiplatform/transmedia for storytelling, distribution and financing. Installed myself on arrival in a lovely room overlooking the 19C University of Copenhagen buildings. It was a drizzly day, much like the last time I visited around four years ago, same time, same place. But I enthusiastically did a super-fast turnaround and was out on the street again in minutes with my Savile Rogue Spurs scarf (a cozy present from the excellent Street League – do go look) and a moderately waterproof coat (though the same can’t be said of the boots). In other words I shifted my normal 9-5 day to make room for some touristing.

I’d used the ambiguously named SAS flight to carry on with the first draft of my commercial creativity  project and to do more Comedy research, focusing on Peter Cook.

Back on the streets of Copenhagen, I headed towards Christiania, the hippy zone I’d set off to visit last time but had got caught in a rainstorm and taken shelter in the Jewish Museum designed by Daniel Libeskind. This time I got all the way to the so-called Green Light Zone where hoodies and beanies of the world unite. I’m too old for that shit. Found myself a quiet candle-lit café for a late lunch of fried herring heralded by a steaming glass of glogg (spiced wine). Throw in a copy of Uncut with a long article about singer-songwriters and that’s me happy.

Headed back to the hotel satisfied and damp. Took off my rain-drenched socks and hit the keyboard big-time, very much in the mood. More work on my model chapter With a Little Help from My Friend centred on Literature and Allen Ginsberg.

Took a few minutes to tidy up plans for a Channel 4 team visit to Arte on Friday in Paris (after which I plan to go check out the Beat Hotel in rue Git-le-Coeur when Ginsberg nearly got hooked on smack, the only time his drugs ever got out of control). And a few minutes thinking about Working Title which Enfant Terrible No. 1 is studying in Media Studies. Then back to business, inspired by the university library opposite, still fully lit towards midnight, walls of colourfully bound books illuminated in the arched windows (perhaps inevitably, no students in evidence).

University of Copenhagen library

This above all: to thine own self be true

richard burton hamlet

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